From France to Nepal - The CPPR and RPN partnership
Report on the Nepal mission :
By Hélène Allaire and Alexis Le Gac, President and Secretary of CPPR.
Trip from 12 to 24 November 2018.
THE "PROTAGONISTS" OF THE JOURNEY :
Helene ALLAIRE, President of the CPPR
Animal keeper at the Parc Zoologique de Paris
Alexis LE GAC, Secretary of the CPPR
Animal keeper at the Zoological and Botanical Park of Mulhouse
Saroj Shrestha, RPN Programme Coordinator (Nepal)
Tek Rawat, RPN member
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu
On arrival, we are greeted by MounMoun, one of the Red Panda Network staff. She takes us directly to our hotel. Saroj joins us there so that we can get to know each other.
We talk about the programme for the next few days and we also discuss the issues surrounding the conservation of the red panda.
The main topics are stray dogs and deforestation. We will have the opportunity to address these topics many times during the trip.
Saroj gives us an appointment for the day after tomorrow. We will take some rest and recover from jet lag.
Day 2 : Visit to Kathmandu
Ms. Praguati is a contributor to the RPN. She is a professional journalist and contributes to the Association's communications efforts. Today, she is responsible for introducing us to the capital's iconic landmarks.
So we set off at 9:30 a.m., in the comfort of a modern car; which is a luxury here because it allows us to escape the ambient pollution. Kathmandu is permanently covered in a fog of particles due largely to vehicle exhausts. This causes respiratory discomfort and itchy eyes.
Visually, pollution is also very present: lots of waste everywhere, including in waterways.
First visit: The Great Buddha Stupa :
The largest Stupa in Kathmandu. A historical and spiritual place, where Buddhists and Hindus meet in various prayer places. Certainly one of the most touristy places in Kathmandu.
Second visit: The Royal Palace:
Still under reconstruction since the 2015 earthquakes.
The city receives support from several nations for this work, but it is the inhabitants who work on the spot, with rudimentary means.
We visit the palace's museums, covering several themes:
- Making typical Nepalese windows;
- The ornamental columns of the palace and their design;
- Hindu and Buddhist deities.
Animals are widely represented and are part of the daily life of the inhabitants.
It is rare to eat meat (and it will usually be chicken), and it is forbidden to harm any animal, regardless of the species. Also note that cows are sacred here.
Third visit: Kathmandu Zoo:
It is the only zoo in Nepal!
Overall, we found the enclosures to be adequate, except for a few that were quite dilapidated. However, many new facilities are currently being built. We mainly observed local wildlife, including deer, buffalo, Indian rhinos, tigers, Himalayan bears, Siamangs, etc.
We note that the park is facing population management difficulties for certain species (captures in the wild, over-reproduction, etc.) but has recently initiated exchanges with other zoos, including Berlin, London, Singapore and parks in the USA.
Fourth visit: The Temple of Swayambhunath, the Temple of the Monkeys!
It is one of the rare places in the capital where there are trees, and in large quantities!
This is where we observe the majority of the city's macaque population. They coexist with stray dogs, which are also numerous here. Traditionally, these animals are fed by both locals and tourists. The consequences are numerous: violent conflicts between the animals, litter everywhere we look, and diseases and injuries between dogs and primates.
We also observed many kites, some of which made frequent visits to the trees. Given the large number of young macaques, we believe these birds consider this place a food pantry. Despite these negative points, the place remains unexpected and magical for us.
We thank Ms Praguati, who was a very good guide throughout the day.
Day 3: Kathmandu to Rara
After Saroj picks us up from our hotel, we head to Kathmandu airport. We'll be heading to the town of Jumla, in the district of the same name. We'll be staying there for four days; it will be our base for visiting the two conservation program sites that Saroj will show us.
With Jumla Airport closed for renovations, we will transit through Nepalgunj to Rara Wildlife Sanctuary today, which will bring us as close to the district as possible, saving us several hours of jeep riding on dirt roads.
This is also an opportunity to pass by Lake Rara, the largest in Nepal.
We set off after several hours of waiting for two consecutive flights, passing over the plains of the Terai and the Mahabharat range, and here we are in the Himalayan mountains!
On arrival we meet Tek Rawat, a member of the RPN. He will also accompany us to Jumla.
A jeep is waiting to take us back to our hotel. This first drive on the dirt road lasts less than an hour. However, we're already becoming aware of how difficult it is to get around here: the road is bumpy, very narrow, and the dust caused by the nature of the soil and rock is a constant nuisance.
On the outskirts of Lake Rara, we leave the vehicles behind as we have to enter the nature reserve where only walking or horse riding is allowed.
We walked around the lake for an hour and a half, and noticed countless pieces of rubbish all around us.
We discuss this topic with Saroj. He explains that here, as elsewhere, there is no waste treatment. He is aware of the enormous problem, and shows us holes in the ground: they serve as trash cans (about 1 cubic meter dug). But most people in Nepal are still not aware of the problems caused by waste.
Arrival at the Rara Lake Hotel. The location is bucolic and the view of the lake and mountains is breathtaking. Many tents serve as rooms, but we'll be lucky enough to occupy a room in the wooden building.
From now on, comfort will be basic until we return from Jumla:
- power:Mostofthetime,electricityisgeneratedbysolarpanels.Thesepanelsaresmallandfewinnumber.Therefore,theelectricaloutletsandlightsintheroomsareonlyactivatedforafewhoursduringtheday(morningandevening),unlesstheyhavebeenunabletosufficientlychargethebatteries.
- water: In Nepal,it is not potable.Therefore, always bring mineral water with you before you go anywhere. Tap water will flow if the pipes are not frozen. Hot water rarely works, as water heaters consume electricity.
- Heating: None. The few places where tourists are welcome have a wood-burning stove in the main restaurant building. Wood is a rare commodity and difficult to transport. In the villages, it is the women who are in charge of this work: they have to go up to the forest to look for dead wood, loaded in baskets which are carried with a strap on the forehead. Often they have to travel dozens of kilometres.
Every morning and evening, residents light small fires along their houses to keep warm. If there is no wood, they use cardboard and plastic waste.
An unforgettable first evening, where we got to know Saroj and Tek Rawat better. We discussed our shared desire to work for the preservation of our planet, regardless of the challenges and endangered species. They made it clear that they were already delighted by our visit, our interest, and that they were eager to show us how the red panda conservation program works.
Day 4: Jumla
We set off again at the entrance to the reserve to continue our journey to Jumla by jeep. The very complicated road seems endless. The constant bumps cause pain all over our bodies. However, we pass many vehicles along the way, including jeeps, but also many crowded buses and two-wheelers.
These tracks are used extensively every day by villagers to visit relatives or to trade.
Domestic livestock are everywhere on these roads: sheep, goats, cows, horses, chickens. Some are guarded by dogs, which can cause problems when red pandas pass near a herd.
We enter the Jumla district. As we leave a village, a large sign from the Red Panda Network informs us (in Nepalese) of the presence of red pandas in the nearby forests.
These signs contain general information about the animal and the RPN conservation program (we will see them at each location considered a “Red Panda Habitat”).
We meet villagers who are working with the RPN to protect the habitats. They are called the "Red Panda Communitie". These people are integrated into the conservation project. They are sensitised and are a communication relay to the rest of the population.
We arrive around 6 pm in Jumla, in the almost only hotel of the corner: Kanjirowa. This establishment is held by a Tibetan family with Buddhist traditions.
PARENTHESIS: A fundraising action for Nepal
Prior to departure, in France, the CPPR Board members were busy organising a collection of materials, established with the RPN members.
The priority needs were the following:
- Clothes for the rangers: warm if possible as it is very cold at altitude, rain gear, walking shoes;
- School materials for the schools that are part of the "Red Panda Communitie": pens, markers, notebooks, sheets, any idea was welcome!
- A water purifier for the school in Sinja (see below);
- Seeds so that villagers can grow more ;
Unfortunately, as far as seeds are concerned, we thought we would be able to get some on the spot
in order to avoid additional shipping costs and, above all, to be sure that they would be cultivable once at their destination. But here too, it was very complicated, because for this to happen, certain agreements from the government were needed, which would have taken weeks or even months to be fulfilled!
Nothing is lost, as we will continue to send material from France.
Day 5: Sinja
To get to the town of Sinja, a 3-hour jeep ride is required.
We meet the two forest rangers who will guide us from the village to the red panda habitat.
The only equipment the two men have is a GPS and an RPN jacket. Their shoes are old.
From Sinja, the ascent to the forest is difficult because the mountainside is very steep.
raid. After crossing arid and grassy ground, we enter a coniferous forest, but then the deciduous trees also become more and more numerous.
The vegetation is dense, so the rangers use their GPS, but they also use markings, so we look for a "boulder"... We walk to a rocky passage. Where water can flow. Animals like red pandas follow these rocky courses to find something to drink. Here, we find the famous "boulder." It's a large rock, with an inscription made by the rangers, containing the following information:
- Block number (each time recorded on GPS) ;
- Altitude (here 2800 metres);
- Signs indicating the direction to the supposed habitat of red pandas.
WARNING:We will not communicate further on the details, simply because this is a technique that must remain within the RPN teams, so as not to leave any information visible to poachers!
We hope you will understand our approach, as poaching unfortunately crosses many borders at the moment.
This sign is based on clues found during the implementation of the protection program. We follow the route with caution; the terrain is difficult, and there is a chance we will encounter Himalayan black bears.
The higher we climb into the forest, the more young bamboo shoots we see, until we find a vast bamboo grove. The bamboo stretches as far as the eye can see in the woods, the site is bordered by pines and very large maples.
An ideal habitat for the red panda: abundant food, numerous trees for resting and defecating. The area is rugged and rocky, which these small carnivores love.
However, we will not have the chance to find any signs of presence that day.
This habitat is considered fragile:
- Several areas to be reforested;
- Presence of villages in the vicinity;
- Numerous herds at altitude;
After our excursion, we visit the children of the Sinja school.
They are also part of the "Red Panda Community." Our arrival in the afternoon is expected at this time, as the children have normally left school to work with their families (crops, herding livestock, etc.).
We are welcomed by just under 30 students accompanied by the school principal and teachers.
The dialect here is a little different from that of Saroj. While he understands almost everything, Tek Rawat translates a few sentences and provides clarifications. Indeed, there are as many dialects in Nepal as there are districts. That's why, at this school, the children learn English, among other things.
We ask our questions and listen to the comments of our guests:
- The School lack of material resources : no desks or notebooks for studying. This poses a problem for learning to write/read.
- Presence of rats, who nibble at the material. The school has a few locked cabinets to keep paper safe.
- The solar panel provides too little power. A computer would be useful, but it can hardly ever be powered.
- The water from the spring is not drinkable, as everywhere. Children must drink it, however. It is boiled for consumption when possible.
- Inequality between girls and boys: Culturally here, boys are allowed to have fun, playing football for example. But the girls have to work during these times: working on the crops, carrying loads...
- The children can come and study from the age of 4, with no age limit after that. They are divided into classes based on their level, not their age. Generally, children no longer attend from the age of 17, as this is generally the age for marriage.
- In Sinja, children study English but also the environment. Schooling costs the government $5 per month. However, the teachers are not professional teachers.
- If crops are limited, so are meals and sometimes children cannot get enough to eat.
The children thanked us for our interest in them. One of them reported seeing a red panda in the village one winter morning.
Before leaving them, we give them the school material collected in France (sheets, markers, pens...)
We conclude that it is urgent to send a water purifier (requiring neither electricity nor a cartridge to be changed regularly). Upon our return to Kathmandu, we will purchase a purifier adapted to the needs of the school.
Having noted the needs of the school, we now know that it will be useful to send a little more school materials (notebooks, pencils, pens especially!), possibly financing a computer when it will be possible for them to have better access to electricity.
The recent presence of the RPN will perhaps allow the comfort of the village to evolve.
Day 6: Patmara
The town is located in an area that is more difficult to access than the previous one. Located 1.5 hours by jeep from Jumla, there are few houses along the way.
The red panda habitat is located behind the mountain closing the valley. The two young forest rangers are waiting for us for this climb, which will be very physically demanding.
So we begin the walk in this area which seems deserted at first glance (vast slope of dry grass). A few Himalayan vultures are present as well as other small birds of prey. We notice that there are also many rodents, hence the certain presence of these birds.
At the summit, we are at an altitude of 3773 meters, it is 7°C. This draws our attention to the guards' equipment: an RPN jacket and a GPS, one of them wears "crocks" as shoes and they do not have really warm clothes.
The descent down the other side is complicated because it is very steep. We can see the conifer and deciduous forest right in front of us, perched on the steep slopes.
Here again, we are told that this is an ideal habitat for the red panda: the trees they prefer for resting or relieving themselves are abundant, there are many hollow trees, and there are numerous bamboo groves.
The guards came here two weeks ago, but they were last able to observe an individual on patrol two months before our arrival.
Our goal today is to find at least some evidence of the presence of the animals, particularly excrement. The guards, having already carried out several patrols before, found several "scats" quite close to each other! A victory for us!
These observations are complicated because the little panda defecates high up, on the big branches that grow towards a flat trend. You have to climb to find them.
All sightings are recorded on the GPS, which allows for traceability of sightings and some follow-up. This also facilitates searches during subsequent patrols.
The vegetation here is so dense that it is like a jungle.
In total, we found 4 "scats", one of which contained the droppings of a very young red panda; a nice indication that the population here is thriving.
We climb back up the mountainside, still in the thick forest, among the bamboo. We now visually search for animals. Our eye is often drawn to the lichens that grow on almost all large (coniferous) trees, because these mosses are orange.
It looks like a curled-up red panda! Proof that its fur is perfect camouflage in these forests. Unfortunately, we won't have the opportunity to observe these discreet animals, which are rather active at night.
During the excursion, we noted two notable problems in this area:
- Some patches of forest are heavily deforested, which fragments this habitat and confines the population.
- Some of the bamboo has reached the end of its life cycle, so it does not regenerate (life span of about ten years).
For both of these concerns, reforestation solutions are possible. This work began last year with the help of the "Red Panda Community" (in other words, the village's inhabitants); the children participated in this task with their parents.
By the way, it's time for us to go to the school in Patmara.
It's a Saturday, so the school is closed. But the students and the principal have arranged for us to meet. It's worth noting that here, as elsewhere in the region, children have to work like their parents to support the household.
Some join us after their work (For example, Saturday is laundry day for the girls, so they join us as soon as the job is done.)
They talk to us a lot about the nature that surrounds them and how important it is for them to preserve it. Despite the difficult living conditions, they love living here. The existence of the red panda conservation program is therefore a boon for everyone here.
The children have a very good understanding of their environment and are very aware of the issues facing the planet today. They even talk to us about global warming and its effects.
We send them the second part of the school supplies collected in France.
They are happy that we made the trip, each person takes it as a gesture of support and recognition of their involvement.
Return to Jumla after this last interview.
DAY 7: MONITORING, CONCRETE ACTIONS IN THE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT
On Sunday morning, while waiting for the forest guards to join us in Jumla, we took advantage of the good weather to go to the heights of the city with Saroj, to have a full view of the place. This walk and the time that was given to us during the morning allowed us to talk about the various conditions between France and Nepal (economy, politics, agriculture, etc).
The rangers then arrive at the hotel from their respective villages (Sinja and Patmara) on foot! A vehicle or even a horse for transportation is too expensive for them...
So we start the debriefing. The main aim is to pass on information between the two villages, to continue the training in the field, to talk about current issues, etc.
Photo of the table with, from left to right, Hélène, Saroj, Raj Kumar Bada (22), Ram Kumar Thapa (18), Maheshewa Tewari (35) and Mohan Joshi (38). Photo by Alexis.
Raj and Ram were the two forest guards of Patmara's home!
Maheshewa and Mohan were Sinja's.
The presentation starts with the generalities of the red panda. In addition to what we already knew, we learned more about its lifestyle in this country:
- In Nepal, it lives between 2200 and 3900 metres above sea level.
- Its diet: 70% bamboo, 20% eggs, 10% fruit (these figures do not correspond at all to the data we generally find)
- Breeding is almost the same as in captivity in Europe: breeding period and number of young (usually 2, rarely 3)
The following points concern threats:
- In addition to the deforestation for firewood, the herds that climb to higher altitudes for grazing also fragment the environment enormously;
- The life span of bamboo varieties present: only 10 years! It is therefore necessary to replant often shoots for a permanent feeding of the pandas;
- Stray dogs : This is probably the most important issue. Indeed, dogs are used to protect the herds from panthers and bears when they are in the mountains, but no management of reproduction is organised.
Due to the fragmentation of their habitat, pandas often approach villages and are therefore attacked by dogs, and many of them also roam in the mountains. In addition to being killed by a dog, the risk is to be contaminated by diseases that can be transmitted from dogs to pandas.
Panda found dead of injuries caused by a dog
- Ancient Tibetan beliefs: Tibetan culture says that when you see a red panda, it brings bad luck! It is therefore necessary to kill it and wear it as a hat during the following festivities so that it brings good luck to the person.
The education programme is therefore needed for more and more schools, in villages that are very isolated.
- Poaching : As the red panda is prized for its fur, it is regularly poached. The rangers organise 4 field surveys of their assigned habitat per year (see below: How do the rangers do it?), plus 2 additional surveys with RPN teams and local police, often in October/November.
Why? Because this is the festive season in Nepal, and villagers are rarely in the mountains. The terrain is therefore quieter for the poachers' actions.
You should also know that poaching a red panda can be sentenced to 10 years in prison, unless the person can pay a substantial fine for not going...
The following topic: How do forest rangers do it?
PS: For information, there are currently 43 teams of rangers working on the sites where the red panda is present, i.e. 86 rangers (4 women among them), in the eastern and central part of Nepal. The rangers in Sinja and Patmara are the first to work in the west (the far west is not yet surveyed).
The method is simple, once you understand it! It is a protocol established by the RPN.
The RPN provides rangers with 3 survey sheets (for the natural environment, the so-called human environment, and information on the red panda) for each official field stage (4 per year).
They study "block by block", i.e. one square kilometre per block each time. The ground is examined at each block, with a very precise method: what is around us 1 metre in the round, 3 metres in the round, then 9 metres in the round, see the following diagram:
The yellow square represents a study block.
The studs are located at each intersection of a red line with a yellow one, as well as in its centre.
Study what is around you.
The information collected is therefore very varied
The natural environment :
- What varieties of herbs, shrubs, trees?
- What rock structures? Types of terrain (flat, steep)?
- Presence of watercourses, waterfalls, wetlands (presence of a spring) etc.
The so-called human environment :
- Presence of domestic herds ;
- Presence of deforestation, crop development, etc.
- Presence of stray domestic dogs;
- Information on the red panda :
- Indications of presence (faeces, footprints, claw marks on trunks, consumed bamboo), if by chance: observation of a living individual!
- Evidence of predators ;
- Evidence of poaching (traps, etc) ;
Claw marks on a trunk
There, there is a panda! Yes, there is!
Photo traps will be set up in the near future for both Sinja and Patmara in order to study and count the pandas as best as possible.
The training of rangers in the use of GPS is also important, as it cannot be said that this type of device is commonplace in their customs. They are largely guided by their knowledge of the terrain.
Last topic discussed: Ecotrips :
Then we talked about the ecotourism offered in Nepal by RPN. For the moment, these "trekking tours" that allow tourists to observe pandas in the wild for about ten days are set up in the East (easy terrain) and the Centre (difficult) of Nepal. They are suitable for all audiences, from all over the world.
They are offered during two three-month periods of the year: the mating period and the birth period. These are the most favourable periods for observing pandas, and above all the most attractive!
The money raised is used to support the Red Panda Communities and the forest guards in their way of life. They receive part of the money in cash and part in food, as they do not always have the necessary resources to feed themselves.
We conclude this very rich day by offering the forest guards t-shirts with the effigy of the panda and the CPPR to show them our support in this cause and especially in their work which is really difficult.
Back to Kathmandu
After our last day in Jumla, we take a 14 hour drive to Nepalgunj! One night in a hotel and then fly to Kathmandu.
As soon as we returned, Saroj took us to the offices of the RPN. We were able to meet with Ang Phuri Sherpa, director of the Association. He was very happy to see us, as we were in fact the first of their partners to go there!
It was November 20th, the ninth day of our trip. Time for us to find our bearings in the city, and the next day we were busy looking for shops, shops, craftsmen or others, which would allow us to find items to bring back to France, but not just any items!
Our search criteria :
- Handmade items by local, isolated or disadvantaged populations;
- Nepalese craftsmanship in its purest tradition;
- Ecological or natural products whenever possible;
- Articles that do not involve child slavery;
- ALL: without going through organizations or productions that take a profit on the sales share, so that the producers are paid directly;
Two shops caught our attention:
- One Tree Stop : A small but interesting shop that offers a collection of original and quality souvenirs, produced by women's groups, NGOs and carefully selected local workshops. The originality of the place: the shop is on the ground floor of a café built around a huge old banyan tree, which mainly employs deaf waiters.
In support of this cause, we took a few minutes to stop for a coffee.
- Mahaguti : A wide range of articles of all kinds, most of them made by disadvantaged people or minorities. The shop is part of the "World Fair Trade", an international organisation that promotes fair trade, fights against slavery, develops work in good conditions, participates in the respect of the environment, creates advantages and economic opportunities for the producers, etc.
As we are an association that wants to promote Nepalese handicrafts and develop sales in France, we created a surprise by buying large quantities of certain items!
Unfortunately some of the products we will be offering will be in extremely limited quantities, as stocks of handmade products are not always available.
Acknowledgements
We would like to thank all the members and volunteers of the CPPR who support us on a daily basis throughout the year as well as all our partners without whom this trip would not have been possible!
This allowed us to know concretely the actions on the ground by the RPN, to know what has been done and what still needs to be done!
In the future we will participate in projects initiated by the RPN, such as natural areas to be reforested and a major campaign to sterilise and vaccinate stray dogs.
We hope to be able to return to Nepal on a regular basis to ensure the continuity of the actions and to develop new ones.
Thank you all!
Hélène and Alexis
EN 
FR